Water waves theories; statistical and spectral theories for water waves. Wave measurements; winds; wave forecasting and hindcasting.
Wave generation and propagation; wave refraction, diffraction, reflection and breaking. Wave actions on maritime structures; coastal hydrodynamics; coastal sediment transport
Wave generation and propagation; wave refraction, diffraction, reflection and breaking. Wave actions on maritime structures; coastal hydrodynamics; coastal sediment transport
teacher profile teaching materials
Linear theory
wave characteristics (velocities, pressure, energy,...)
Wave propagation to shallow water
wind wave generation
Real wave field measures and analysis
Programme
Mathematical theory of sea wavesLinear theory
wave characteristics (velocities, pressure, energy,...)
Wave propagation to shallow water
wind wave generation
Real wave field measures and analysis
Core Documentation
Lectures textbookType of evaluation
The exam is oral and it includes the correction of the assignments