Water waves theories; statistical and spectral theories for water waves. Wave measurements; winds; wave forecasting and hindcasting.
Wave generation and propagation; wave refraction, diffraction, reflection and breaking. Wave actions on maritime structures; coastal hydrodynamics; coastal sediment transport
Wave generation and propagation; wave refraction, diffraction, reflection and breaking. Wave actions on maritime structures; coastal hydrodynamics; coastal sediment transport
teacher profile teaching materials
• Linear theory of wave motion: periodic progressive waves of constant form, interference between waves, energy propagation, periodic waves on weakly variable sea-bed.
• Wave breaking
• Real waves: irregular waves, ondametric measurements, statistical and spectral analysis of the recorded series
• Analysis of wave pressures on fixed and mobile structures
Programme
• Introduction to maritime hydraulic phenomena: waves, currents and sea level variations• Linear theory of wave motion: periodic progressive waves of constant form, interference between waves, energy propagation, periodic waves on weakly variable sea-bed.
• Wave breaking
• Real waves: irregular waves, ondametric measurements, statistical and spectral analysis of the recorded series
• Analysis of wave pressures on fixed and mobile structures
Core Documentation
handouts provided by the teacherReference Bibliography
• Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering- Vol 30. JW Kamphuis, "Introduction to coastal engineering and management" 2nd edition • Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering- Vol 2. R G Dean and R A Dalrymple, "Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists" • Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering- Vol 42. C C Mei, M A Stiassnie and D K-P Yue "Theory and applications of ocean surface waves" (in 2 volumes) 3rd edition • Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering- Vol 33. Y Goda, "Random Seas and Design of maritime structures" • Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering- Vol 28. T Shibayama, "Coastal processes" • "Handbook of coastal and ocean engineering" YC Kim (in 2 volumes) expanded edition. • Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering- Vol 24. I A Svendsen, "Introduction to nearshore Hydrodynamics"Type of delivery of the course
The course includes 36 hours of theoretical lectures, during which the fundamental knowledge of wave is provided. During the course about 12 hours are dedicated to some exercises to examine in depth some topic.Type of evaluation
The oral exam assesses the student's knowledge about the topics covered in the course. Students have to provide the solved assignments at least one week before the exam.